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Helpful Guides from the DiaOseal service manual. |
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Tap Service Guide - How to change a tap washer?
Pressure test you shower assembly or breeching piece?
What to do in the case of a broken pipe?
What is a water Hammer?
The effective waterproofing detail prior to the application of a membrane |
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| DiaOseal SERVICE MANUAL – Tap Service Guide |
| by Trent Moreland |
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| Water tap washers can fail at any time and the result is a constant dripping and loss of water |
Many leaking showers attended to by DiaOseal technicians are a direct result of an incessant dripping showerhead caused by worn or inferior tap washers. Incessant dripping saturates the shower base and penetrates below the tile surface to the screed, made of a mix of sand and cement.
If you picture the screed as a sponge and place it under a dripping tap, it would absorb water until it reached a point of saturation, and start dripping.
If your membrane has failed or is there isn’t one at all, then there is no containment of the water. A failed or leaking body washer, is another common cause of leaks, resulting in water penetrating the wall space or material. |
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Tap Service Guide.
DiaOseal performs a pressure test and full tap service on every shower as part of our Standard Seal Service.
1.TURN OFF THE MAIN WATER SUPPLY, usually located at the front of the premises. (See below for helpful hints.)
2. SPINDLE REMOVAL and REFACING
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Make sure the spindle penetration is free of grout, glue cement etc.
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If required chip away any tile encroaching or restricting the removal of the spindle.
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Turn the spindles on before unscrewing from the body.
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Use your tube spanner to remove the spindle.
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With the back of your knife blade, clean the body washer seat making sure it is flat and the channel is clean.
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Using the tap reseater (refacing tool), to reface the seats within the recessed bodies using a smooth even pressure. Use your torch and make sure the seat is perfectly flat evenly around and clean.
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With the vacuum and your little finger, clean out the body making sure it is free of brass shavings.
3. CLEAN and LUBRICATE
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Remove the spindle completely from the bonnet by unscrewing.
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Clean the body washer seat of the bonnet with your knife.
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Clean the outer thread and washer seat of the bonnet with your wire brush.
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Screw the thread cleaner into the bonnet to remove foreign matter from the bonnet.
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Clean spindle thread using your wire brush and finish by wiping clean with your towel or rag.
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Replace ‘O’ ring on spindle.
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Lubricate the threads on the bonnet and spindle using Hydroseal tap lubricant.
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Fully screw the spindle into the bonnet.
4. WASHER REPLACEMENT
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Choose the right size fibre washer for the seat, do not use a narrow washer on a wide seat or vice versa
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Place new valve in spindle.
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Screw spindle into recess body and tighten being careful not to over tighten as it is possible to damage the fibre washer.
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Place a tap handle on the spindle and screw the valve closed.
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Turn off any another taps you have turned on within the bathroom.
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Turn on main water supply.
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Check the spindle penetrations for leaks and drips from the fibre washer.
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Fully screw the spindle into the bonnet.
Helpful Hints
Isolation Valves
Unit location could be:
- Next to toilet Under the sink.
- Under the laundry tub
- Outside bathroom window on wall.
- Behind panel inside kitchen cupboard.
- If unable to locate it, ask neighbours.
House location could be:
- Along the front boundary/fence line.
- Look at the neighbours, usually they’re in the same location for each property.
- Recycled water suburbs have two meters; make sure you have the right one turned off.
- In the vicinity of the front tap.
General Information.
If the house is very old the hot water service can be in the roof.
Before you unscrew the spindle turn on another set of taps in the bathroom, e.g. basin set or bath set to release any pressure and drain excess water from the lines. |
| DiaOseal SERVICE MANUAL – Pressure Test Guide |
| by Trent Moreland |
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| The Pressure Gauge will test the shower assembly for leaks in the breeching piece, and recesses bodies. ( Shower taps and Shower Rose (head)). |
Many leaking showers attended to by DiaOseal technicians are a direct result of a leaking joint within the breaching piece or body washer.
A pressure drop is easy to observe when using water due to the fact that water does not compress, so any loss in volume will show itself quickly as a loss in pressure. Since the pressure gauge will show an inaccurate reading when water is flowing, turn the valve handle to the off position, and check pressure. If the line holds pressure there is not a problem leak in the section you are testing. If pressure does drop, check all connections are secure, and test again to confirm leak. Turn valve off and release any pressure after this test is complete. |
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Pressure Test Guide.
DiaOseal performs a pressure test and full tap service on every shower as part of our Standard Seal Service.
1. Steps
- Unscrew the shower rose off the wall and clean any teflon tape or similar from the thread.
- Screw pressure gauge hose onto the thread that comes out of wall.
- Turn on the cold tap, pressurizing the gauge.
- Check with your torch through the spindle penetrations for leaks from body washers and any leakage dripping down from the shower rose behind the wall.
- Watching the gauge turn the cold water off. The needle should remain in the same position. If a leak is present the needle will drop due to pressure loss within the gauge as a result of this leak.
- With the cold water off, turn the hot water spindle on and check the body washer for leaks.
- Should your test reveal a leaking pipe, STOP and call the office.
- Should your test reveal a leaking body washer, don't worry as you will be performing a tap service anyway. (As per tap service guide.)
General Information.
You will not be able to carry out a pressure test on a gravity feed hot water system. If you find a leaking body washer on the hot water side, inform the client that a plumber is required to change the washers as soon as possible. |
| WHAT TO DO IN THE CASE OF A BROKEN PIPE OR LEAK |
| by Trent Moreland |
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| DiaOseal - Stop Leaks, Fixing leaks or Suspect a Leak in Pipes. |
Many leaking showers attended to by DiaOseal technicians are a direct result of a leaking joint within the breaching piece or body washer.
A burst water pipe can cause serious damage to your home and your property. Even just a leaking pipe can cause your water usage to increase dramatically and with the water restrictions that are currently in place you could even receive a fine. |
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Apart from the obvious damage that water can cause in your home. Slow
leaks in your yard can damage footings and attract termites.
If you do notice a leak:
1. Make sure all the fixtures (baths,sinks etc) in and outside your house are
turned off. Pay attention to each fixture (toilets) too see if it there are any
leaks or drips.
2. Locate your water meter.
- Your council water meter/stop tap is located generally just outside the
front boundary inline with your front hose tap.
3. Open the water meter box. Check to see if the meter dials are turning. If
they are, it's most probably a leak within your property.
- If it is your supply, check any irrigation valves which may have turned on
accidentally. Check for damp areas or pooling water.
- If the leak is severe, turn the water off at the main and contact a
professional plumber immediately.
4. If your meter is not showing any water use, contact your neighbours
regarding their water and advise them to check their water meters as well.
5. If no leaks are located, contact your local council or a qualified plumber
to perform a water audit. |
| DIAOSEAL SERVICE MANUAL – WHAT IS WATER HAMMER |
| by Trent Moreland |
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| Water hammer is a specific plumbing noise, not a generic name for pipe clatter. |
Water hammer is a specific plumbing noise, not a generic name for pipe clatter. It occurs when you shut off the water suddenly and the fast-moving water rushing through the pipe is brought to a quick halt, creating a sort of shock wave and a hammering noise. |
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What is: Water Hammer.
Hydraulic shock in pipelines is commonly referred to as water hammer.
However, water hammer is only one result of the harmful effects created by
hydraulic shock. Hydraulic shock occurs when fluid flowing through a pipe
is subjected to a sudden, rapid change in velocity. The pressure wave
generated travels back and forth within the piping until the energy is
dissipated.
When the tubes are not adequately secured or supported, or the tube runs
are particularly long, these rebounding pressure waves cause the tubes to
vibrate and hit against the supporting structure causing the noise referred
to as water hammer. The noise is objectionable but not, in itself, inherently
dangerous. Noise may not be as noticeable in plastic pipes but damaging
shock stresses are still imposed on pipes and fittings. Hydraulic shock can
cause damage to joints, taps, valves, meters and even to the pipeline itself.
Water hammer effects can be generated by foot action taps, solenoid valves
in clothes and dishwashing machines, quick acting quarter-turn taps and
pumps. Tube should be fixed in position securely at the spacings shown in
the table on page 44 to minimise noise associated with hydraulic shock.
Water hammer effects may be minimised by reducing the velocity of the
water flow in the tubes, reducing the inlet pressure of the water in the system,
closing manually operated taps slowly and by fitting slow acting solenoid
valves.
In certain cases it may be necessary to fit a water hammer arrestor as close
as possible to the source of the problem. These devices are available from
plumbing merchants. |
| DIAOSEAL SERVICE MANUAL – EFFECTIVE SHOWER WATERPROOFING DETAIL |
| by Trent Moreland |
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| Effective Waterproofing Detail prior to membrane application |
Waterproofing of shower recesses, has consistently been among the most commonly reoccurring category one (major) building defects. |
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Effective Waterproofing Detail.
There are many potential causes of waterproofing failure. Most fall under four broad areas: Design and construction defects, incorrect preparation, application errors and incorrect product selection and inadequate protection.
The below photo indicates our recommended detailed preparation prior to the application of any membrane.
All showers are treated as Class 1 membrane regardless of construction materials used. The white substance in the photo is a 10mm backing rod held in position with silicone ensuring a true internal corner position. (After this stage we proceed with 50mm bond braking tape installation for bonded membranes.)
We use an engineered compound designed to level and smooth sub-floors with a minimum fall of 5mm. By doing this we ensure moisture flows to the drainage flange without ponding. This is done regardless of the drainage flange being set in or fixed to the top surface of floor substrate.
Accumulation of moisture, ponding results in breakdown of sub-standard or ill suited materials.
After the above detail has been undertaken continue with waterproofing of wet areas within residential buildings. |
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